You can see they did :) I used a 5/8" OD 1/2" ID x 1" spacer and the bolts and washers to pull the T-Nuts into the extra pieces, which I'm pretty sure are from the satellite motor shoulders, which I'm not using.
Next up:
All the pieces stacked together for a test fit. I used the unused pieces from the JAG stops to test with, since they had the correct thickness. You can also see I chose to use all of the shoulder spacers. I THINK there's room to remove one when I'm way closer to done if needed.
I used this piece of the JAG stuff for the actual shoulder, because the slots are 1/4" like the rest of the holes. Didn't want stuff to be all wiggly (and stuff :P).
Here's what it looks like all bolted together:
I used 8x 1/4-20 x 2" stainless hex cap screws (They were only like 17 cents more than the cheap ones), 8x 1/4" hardened flat washers (because hardend sounded like it was better than the plain ones) and 8x T-Nuts Pronged 1/4-20 x 7/16".
The spacer rings were countersunk and screwed to the leg with the 10 x 1 1/2" screws that were left over from the frame build.
That's all the hardware.
Here's the leftover plastic pieces. The smaller round piece with the holes (not slots) is what's used as the inside piece of the shoulder (the thing the T-nuts are in).
Here's the fun pictures, where the parts start to come together and even this far from finished you can tell what it is...
And since one of the feet was kind enough to be tight enough to stay on without a pin or something, some even better shots:
AND:
that's right folks, the shoulders are adjustable. Since I used the JAG stops, all it takes is about 1/2 turn with a ratchet on each bolt to have it freed up enough to move to the other position.
Oh, and if anyone is reading this and you should want to see more pics of this, better let me know while R2 is still this naked...
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