Hot Glue issue

FYI, the hot glue wasn't really easy to remove from the second set of ear screens. Spent a couple of hours doing that tonight...

Waiting on Amazon

So apparently , if you order from Amazon using Prime on a Thursday, and get the free 2nd day shipping option, and then try to have your delivery sent to a business that's closed on Saturday, you won't get your stuff until Tuesday :(

No worries though, some things came in today, and other things will be coming in almost every day for the rest of the week.

While I'm waiting, I decided to work on the ears some.

I started out with a 3"x2" oval created in Paint.  Printed it out, cut it out and hot glued it to my metal mesh desktop organizer thing.





Then I cut them out using my dremel with a cutting wheel.



Only thing is...I didn't actually measure the paper templates after printing them, so instead of a 3"x2" oval, I wound up with something about 2 5/8" x 1 3/4".

So, back to the drawing board, or actually Paint.  This time I made the oval 3.5" x 2.5", and when printed, it came out about 3.25"x 2.25".  This looks much better when compared to the first ones:



Only thing is, this time the hot glue is being a pain to remove.

Oh, and I added some reinforcements to the inner top half of the control panel:



That's all for today...

Shopping lists

Ok, since I've been working a little faster than I probably should have gluing all the plastic, I decided to let it cure for a couple of days, and work on my list of electronics parts.

I've got several 'extra' 12V batteries, some in particular that R2 can't use due to the shape that'll be repurposed here.

I can cross the RigRunner power distribution off the list, since I had an "extra" left over from when I changed R2's system over from Spektrum to PS2 wireless.  It also has 2 USB ports that will power the Arduino and the MP3 trigger.

Speaking of those two pieces, about 3 weeks ago, SparkFun Electronics had "Arduino day" on a Saturday, all their boards were on sale 40% off.  I picked up 2 Arduino UNOs and their MP3 trigger board.

I hit Amazon in a big way yesterday, and picked up a bunch of the parts I'm going to need.  that list included:

• 1 right angle USB cable to use powering the Arduino
• 1 Futaba S148 servo for the ears
• 1 linear conversion kit for the Futaba servo
• 1 set of servo horns for moving the ears
• 1 set of servo linkage rods for connecting the servo to the servo horns
• 3 12v-6v stepdown converters for powering the servos from the RigRunner
• 1 2-channel 5V relay module for powering the antenna that will be the scanner
• 1 12V auto audio amplifier for the sound
• 1 set of 3.5" speakers for sound (what else would they be for?)
• 1 PS2 controller extension cable for splitting out the signal from the wireless receiver to the Arduino

I also ordered a SaberTooth 2x25 speed controller from Dimension Engineering, having used that one in R2. Their customer service is top notch. They are very friendly and easy to work with, in the event that you ever have to contact them.

All of that stuff should be showing up next week, so I'll have plenty of new toys to play with.

Today I went shopping at the hobby store and the office supply store, and picked up the stuff to make ears with.  Brass tubing, pencil cup, that kind of thing.  Also picked up some 2mm styrene sheets, since the A&A kit doesn't come with much scrap for improvising.

My outstanding list for electronics is currently:

• control panel light system
• drive motors, wheels, belts, axles and such
• servos for the head and tail
• PS2 wireless controller/receiver

Doesn't look like much, but there's some learning and coding to go along with all the rest of that stuff.
That was one advantage of the Spektrum park flyer style setup.  All you had to do was plug the wires into the right places, make sure black and red weren't mixed up and you were ready to go.

The PS2 setup is much easier to hide though, since it's the one small controller.  It's way more fun to be anonymous and let everyone wonder who's driving, or even better let them think it's autonomous :)

Tomorrow I'll check GameStop for the controller, hopefully they'll have one and it'll be on sale since it's old tech :)

That's all for now...see you next update!

2 updates in 3 days. Things are actually moving pretty well with this build!

So, last night I assembled and glued the upper pieces of the body:



I built and glued the sides first, then the back, since it had the angles and such.

As you can see, I used some packing tape in several places where strength was needed to pull some of the pieces together. That's the tape I used when I was "stretching" R2's aluminum skins around his frame. It doesn't tear, and doesn't let go by itself.

I also hit Lowe's today and bought some aluminum angle pieces. A couple of 1/16" 1/2"x3' angle pieces for the bottom side supports, which I saw another builder do, to keep the bottom of the body from flexing too much, a 1/16" 1"x3' for inside support to attach the handles to, and for neck tube support. I also picked up a 1/16" 1" square tube for the neck and some other inner support, as yet to be determined.
And, if that weren't enough, I picked up a couple of drawer pulls that look a lot like the ones in the reference photos I've been checking out. Only problem with them is that they are chrome and not brushed stainless. I'll probably look around at a couple more hardware stores before I actually use them.

This evening I decided to add some curved ribs across the top of the body, to support the top, and to assist with curving the top piece, again like I've seen another builder do.

Started off with some ABS donated by R2, from his old A&A feet. At the top is the paper template I cut out for the curve.



And, after using the belt sander, which hasn't seen much use in several years:



And here's the "blocks" that the ribs will sit on, to add support and make it easier to glue:



I used small spring clamps to set the blocks, but was afraid that, being plastic, they'd wind up glued in there as well, so I removed them after a couple of minutes.

After a couple of hours, I decided it was time to add the ribs:



And, that's all the photos for today.

Been doing some thinking about how much movement I want K9 to have, besides driving around and head up and down. I've checked out the schematic for making a moving tail and another builder's diary, and I never even considered some of the things his build can already do. Guess I need to start learning how to drive servos with my arduinos...

A New Project

Allons-y!

If that's not enough of a clue, you'll catch on shortly.

If not, Google it.

So I ordered another A&A kit from Astromech.net , the droid builder's website.  This time it's not an R2 kit.  If you don't know, A&A makes ABS plastic flatpack building kits for robots.


Here's a shot of the glue I ordered from Amazon:


It's called Weld-on 4. The number 4 indicates that it's a liquid. They also make a Weld-on 16 that's more like a modeling glue as far as consistency, but for this build everything I read said that 4 is the way to go, because it's a liquid and it can get into the joints quickly.

Anyway, on to the production shots! Here's a pic of the lower rear piece taped and ready to be glued:

At this point I will mention that the table I'm working on is plastic. I wasn't sure how the glue would react with the table (apparently it doesn't near as I can tell) so I taped some aluminum foil together for a work surface. That's why the table is shiny.

I bought some blue painter's tape at the Wally world, since it was what was handy. Unfortunately it's "quick release" so I think maybe it doesn't stick as well as regular masking tape. Oh well, I bought two rolls of it, so it's what's getting used. You can see here that it really doesn't want to stick:


No matter, the tape sticks long enough for the plastic "welds" to set.

Here's a shot of what the joints look like after glue and tightening the tape:



There's going to be some sanding required, as well as some filler that'll need to be sanded too.

Here's a shot of the lower side panels glued, in the process of tape removal:

And here's a shot of all 4 lower panels after glue:



In that last picture you can see where the glue puddles on the foil after having run down the joints.

Next up, the 4 lower panels taped together before gluing:





Once the lower panels were taped together, I realized that there was no way I could just glue them and hope that they'd be square, so this happened:





Hopefully that worked out. Looks like it has so far.

Also built the "control panel". Here's a shot or two. One of them shows the doubled up pieces that add strength to the thin ABS:







That's all the pics I have for now. If you haven't figured it out already, I'm building K-9 from Doctor Who.

After the success I've had with my R2 using the PlayStation 2 wireless controller, that's the direction I'll be going with K9 as well. Almost doesn't make sense to have a controller half as big as the robot.

So far, I've picked up a couple of Arduinos from SparkFun as well as as MP3 Trigger board for sound. I already have a RigRunner 4004U power panel from West Mountain , and extra 12V batteries from R2.


I'll post more soon!

Oh yeah, about the feet...

Well, apparently I never made a post about being close to finishing my JAG feet.

It's done.

Seriously though, I've spent almost as much time upgrading the feet as I did building the whole droid the first time around.
Luckily I'm usually pretty good about grabbing my camera and snapping pics along the way.

Here they are.
Had to thicken up the center ankle a little bit:


Drilling the KHF holes with the step bit:


Holes for the power wires to pass through:


Center Foot detail strips applied:


Outer feet foot strips:


The foot strips are homemade, from a piece of 1"x1/8"x36" aluminum stock from Lowe's. Cut to length with the dremel, ends angled on the table sander, and holes drilled with the drill press and the step bit.

A couple of painted and detailed feet shots:



Center Foot mounted:


Center foot completely assembled:


Outer feet mounted:


Outer feet completely assembled:


You can see that the foot channels aren't tight on the ankles, mainly because when the bolts are tightened, the metal doesn't squeeze together like the plastic ones did...
To remedy that, I brought in some bricks from the backyard and used them under the front and back of each foot to level them out so I could add a locking screw through the foot and ankle next to the mounting bolts.
Thing is, I only brought in 2 bricks, and did each foot separately. And the bricks were 3/4" taller than the finished foot, meaning that the whole angle I secured the feet at was wrong. The feet sloped towards the ground in the back.
Luckily there was just enough wiggle for me to level out the feet and put some creatively made spacers in place to hold the foot level:

In that shot you can see both the "spacers" and the locking screws. The good thing about those spacers is, other than the small drops of superglue and the 4 inches of tape, they only cost 13 cents :D

That should just about cover it, although it's in much less detail than I'd normally go into, mainly because it's 8 months worth of work crammed into one post.

All that's left to finish before DragonCon now is putting on the battery boxes and the hoses, which are ready to go. Silly thing is, it'll take 3 minutes to do the work, and an hour to document it...

Re-Kridering the dome panels

Well, like the title says, here's my post about repainting the dome panels.

Two Sundays ago I looked outside, and saw that it was sunny and clear, which is something of a rarity this time of year, since most afternoons we get those big afternoon thunderstorms down here on the Gulf Coast.  I checked my weather channel app, and it said the temp was 92 degrees, with 76% humidity, but I went ahead and painted anyway, figuring "who knows when my next chance will be".

I had put a couple more coats of primer on the pieces on Friday afternoon and sanded them on Saturday, so everything was ready, with the exception of my paints.  I had everything I needed except for enough of the DupliColor MetalCast Blue, so I made a quick trip to the AutoZone to remedy that.  When I arrived, at first I was worried, because they had all the usual colors except blue, and they appeared to have added a very light teal color judging by the caps on the cans.  After picking up the teal, I realized that the cap had faded and it was indeed the blue I was looking for.

I headed back home and began the 2 hour process of painting the parts, using the timer on my iPhone to remind me when the 15 minutes between each coat was up.



Painting went well through the metallic blue coats, easy as could be.  The only problem came when I started to apply the Duplicolor.  Of course I had some of that left in the can from last time, so I was going to use it first.  Naturally, shortly after I started the first coat of clear blue, the can starting "spitting" and messed up a couple of the panels.  I immediately tried to blot up the spots with a corner of paper towel, but that really didn't work, so I grabbed the new can and continued painting.  The new can of course had no issues, and I was able to finish the 2 coats of clear blue without further problems.  When it came to the clear coat, instead of the usual 2 coats, I applied 4 coats, hoping that the weight of the paint would somehow settle the spots down, but that really didn't work.


You can see the "spits" in this photo:

I went ahead and brought the pieces inside and let them cure for what initally started out to be 3 days, and turned out to be 2 weeks, just due to procrastination,I guess.

Anyway, today I reglued them to the dome using my good old PolySeamSeal silicone.  I also used much less silicone this time than I did last time, just because you never know...



Here in just the last 5 minutes I've gone back and added some small pieces of painters tape to hold the pieces in place. Thanks to our old friend gravity, they were sliding down to the bottom of the openings.
The color is a pretty darn good match, although the old paint seems to be a little darker, possibly just due to age. Anyway, repairs done :)